Day 6: Osaka

It's good-bye sweet Tokyo, hello new Osaka. There's definitely a different vibe to Osaka, more laid back, stand on the right, walk on the left. Less suits, more running shoes.







Also, cooler retro trains



We arrive at Mille Caresses, an Italian wine bar near Osaka station. First time in Osaka and Tomo's birthday. You know what this calls for.




This is the champagne on the far left. Hard to see, but the bubbles were extremely fine, and the flavor was closer to a well aged chardonnay than a champagne.



The unique thing about this extablishment is that a lot of the wines they have available by the glass are quite old. They keep the wine in baskets to keep the sediment that has formed over the years rested at the bottom.



Muscat grape with gold foil, and a type of Japanese kiwi. Both obviously in season and delicious



Unripened pickled peaches. Surprisingly delicious



The anticipation is killing me



Charcuterie platter with jamon iberico, cured horse meat and I forgot the other one



More wine to pair with the next dish



Seared abalone with liver sauce. Top 10 best things I have put in my mouth. So delicious



Something more robust for our next course



They informed Tomo that they just got fresh offal from a wild boar. If I'm not mistaken, it's liver, heart and kidney. The heart was especially delicious, but I felt the liver was a little overcooked. The only misstep of the evening.



This was the surprising pick of the night. On the nose there was a lot of alcohol, and not much else at first...



But paired with this sandwich of the most tender succulent Wagyu, it was sublime



So delicious


What happened next is what I like to call the "Tomo effect". Better seating, better service, more choices. These are a given in her company. What also generally happens, over quick exchanges of smiles and delighted chatter is an experience that you'll never get dining with the regular folks of this world. Still hungry? Not on the menu? Last selection of prized ingredients? Yes.



Yes, that is a black truffle. And yes, our sommelier was the best



It was a carbonara to end all carbonaras. There was a moment in his prolonged generous shaving of truffle onto our pastas where he stopped. He then looked up, reconsidered, and promptly began raining truffle once more all over the plate. Sexy, indulgent, the Tomo effect.

I don't even remember what this cost. But it was worth it